Sunday, September 11, 2016

What is it like to live in a Muslim Country?

Today is September 11th.  If you are an American and born in the 90s or earlier, then you probably know exactly where you were and what you were doing on September 11th, 2001.  This was the day when our country experienced a series of airplane attacks resulting in crashes into the World Trade Center towers and The Pentagon.  Thousands of lives were lost.  Americans mourned collectively and wandered if we would ever feel safe again after such senseless acts of violence.   We stayed glued to our television sets listening to accounts of the events from survivors and rescue workers.  I began to hear new words that would be repeated countless times by news reporters all over the world. Words like "Al-Qaeda, Osama bin Laden, Taliban, and Islamic-Terrorist.  Those attacks were inexcusable. A small group of people we identified as terrorist caused a tremendous impact.  The impact was so tremendous, that some people generalize that small group of extremist and assume that Muslims from the middle east are to blame.  Muslim DOES NOT equal Terrorist.  Muslim DOES NOT equal ISIS.

Kuwait is the small gray country between Iraq and Saudi Arabia

I am beginning my second year living in Kuwait.  Here is an example of how people react (in America and when traveling to other countries) when I share that I live in Kuwait.

Me:  I live in Kuwait and work as a teacher
Them: (with look of horror or curiosity) What made you choose Kuwait?
Me:  I did research and found that it was a great job opportunity with nice benefits and opportunities to travel all over the world
Them: (usually in a whisper) you are so brave.  Is it safe over there?
Me: I don't feel unsafe.  I use universal precautions wherever I live.
This is usually followed by questions about being a woman in a Muslim country and whether I must dress modestly.

The fact that my safety is still a top question is likely due to the fact that people still assume that every part of the Middle East is experiencing violence and unrest.  While there are certainly parts of this region of the world dealing with war and repeated Isis attacks, that is not the case here in Kuwait.    

Kuwait is a Muslim country.  This fact is evident from the national holidays observed, to the Mosque on every other block.  Here are some of the things that I observe here that are common in Muslim countries.

1.  Call to prayer and prayer rooms are everywhere
There are prayer rooms in shopping malls and in the school where I work.  5 times daily, the call to prayer can be heard throughout the city.  I can't hear it in my school building.  I can hear it when I go grocery shopping, walk along the beach, and walk through the malls.  It is a part of daily life.  In many taxis, you will notice a little rug folded on the dashboard.  This is so that the driver can pull over or run into a mosque during the call to prayer.  I accept when a driver says he will be late because of prayer time.  This is a part of his observation of his faith.
The mosque across the street from my apartment


2. Muslim holy days are national holidays
I don't work this week.  It is the week of Eid.  I will not give incorrect information by trying to explain it's significance, but all schools are closed during this holy week and friends who work in other jobs tell me that they are also closed or have shortened hours.  The month of Ramadan is a holy month and the whole country goes on full or partial holiday.  Restaurants cannot legally serve food prior to sunset.  You are violating the LAW if you eat or drink publicly before sunset and can be penalized with jail.  Most jobs have a shortened workday.  Christian holidays like Christmas and Easter are just another day in this country.

This is a store display during Ramadan


3.  Modest dress is observed
Many people wonder if I must wear a hijab or head covering.  I don't.  The modest expectation for women here is that we cover from our shoulders to our knees.  Showing cleavage is not appropriate.  Short shorts are not appropriate.  In Kuwait, you will see women in various forms of modesty and coverage.  On a typical day in a mall, you will see women from here and abroad who dress in everything from skinny jeans and t-shirts to a full Niqab covering in which there are only slits for a woman's eyes.   Trust me when I say that I see many Muslim women SLAYING in their fashionable modest dress and hijab.  Fashion labels and high end brand names are very popular in this part of the world.

4. Religion is taught in schools 
In America, I can lose my job for teaching my students to pray in public schools because of our laws that separate church and state.  In Kuwait, my students have an Islamic studies period in which they learn prayers and traditions.  There are Islamic Studies teachers who teach these classes.  My small number of non-Muslim students are given an alternative activity during this period.  

5.  Names related to Islamic faith are very prevalent
I taught 1 Mohammed in my 10 years as a teacher in the United States.  Now, there could very well be 5 Mohammed's per grade level in my school.  A few days ago, I found myself stumbling over the names of 3 boys playing together on the playground.  Abdulaziz, Abdulrahman, and Abdulrazar were all near one another on the playground.   I recently looked up Abdul to find it's meaning because it begins so many names in this region.  It means "servant of".   Abdullah is servant of Allah. Abdulaziz means servant of The Almighty.   These names have religious roots just as James, John, and Paul have religious roots for Christians. 

6. No Pork or Alcohol
I forget about this sometimes because I was never a big drinker.  Bacon in this country is beef or turkey.  Although restaurants have bars and stores have non-alcoholic beers, alcohol is not readily available in this country. 
This is an aisle in the grocery store with "mock" alcoholic drinks 



As a Christian woman, I am in the minority in this country.  I have not ever felt attacked or persecuted for this reason.  Christians are allowed to gather for church services or the purpose of worship/Bible study.  However, you will not find large free standing churches with a steeple and the church name out front.  I don't know if it is illegal to display church names, but it certainly isn't common.  The church services I have attended have been in gathering halls.  It is illegal to purposely attempt to convert others to Christianity.  Standing outside of a Mosque and trying to convince people  to come to Jesus can get you deported.  

What have I learned about Muslims since moving to Kuwait?  
Muslims are people.  What, is that it?  Yeah, that's it.  Some are rich and some are poor.  Some observe each holy day with sacred awe and some use them as an excuse to take a trip.  Some are funny, some silly, some super serious.  Some are generous and loving.  Some are self-absorbed jerks. They are people just like everyone else.  In Kuwait, the Muslims I encounter are caring Kuwaiti parents of my students.  They are taxi drivers from Pakistan and Bangladesh. They are security guards from Egypt.  They are Indians who attend Zumba classes with me.  They are fellow teachers from Jordan and Lebanon.  Are you getting my point?  The people that I encounter are so very diverse, that sometimes the only thing they have in common is a common religion.  

Just as extremist in any groups do not represent the whole, terrorist do not represent Muslims in my eyes.  In fact, as a teacher of small children, I get the cutest representations of little 5 year old Muslims every day.  My country currently has a presidential candidate by the name of Donald Trump, who uses a platform of fear and gives a message that Muslims in the US and throughout the world are    not to be trusted because of the actions of a few.  It scares me that he has a LOT of followers.  This little blogpost is my way of sharing that I live in a Muslim country and I DON'T experience terror and fear on a daily basis.  I experience diverse individuals living their lives. Do you have questions about life in a Muslim country? 


Lost in Greece and The Druggie Asking me for Money?

I found this blog entry from last month that I clearly forgot to post.  Enjoy.

August 10th, 2016
Yesterday morning I woke up super relieved to have slept through the night!  Jet lag has been kicking my butt and this was the first time in a couple weeks that I slept for more than a 4 hour stretch.  Yay! I decided to go visit a city called Parikia.  I had met an American woman the day before who told me that it might be a good day trip.  Either I was a couple minutes too late for the bus, or it just didn't show up for the 9:10 departure at all.  In either case, after waiting 15 minutes with no bus,  I decided to just go to the beach that was a short 5 minute walk from the bus stop.

This is a local beach in Aliki, 8 minutes walk from my hotel



This was my kind of beach.  The sand was soft.  Chairs were provided along with umbrellas.  The water was clear and beautiful.  I should add that this is an 8 minute walk from my little apartment.  I tested the water.  It was chilly.  I eventually plunged in.  It felt great.  Even when shoulder deep, I can see the sandy bottom.  It was like being in a salt water swimming pool.  I hung out at this local beach until about 11:15 and decided to try for the 11:30 bus to Parikia again.  This time, I was successful.

ferry and bus station in Parikia

Beach in Parikia

After a 20 minute ride, we are approaching Parikia.  It looks familiar.  Oh, this is the port city where I arrived on the island 4 days ago.  I hadn't even realized that.  I wander around and see lots of shops with cute stuff for tourist.  That gets old for me. As a frequent traveler, I try to avoid the keychains, hats, and typical souvenirs with the city's name on them.  Actually, it can be tempting sometimes, but I only travel with a carry on bag and can't even bring bulky items back with me.   I decide to find the beach.  The beach is just a ten minute walk from the bus station.  The pros:  There is plenty of seating available on comfy beach chairs.  The chairs are shaded.   When a guy approaches me offering me a menu, I realize the chairs belong to the restaurant across the street.  I order a drink to wash down the lunch that I packed.   Cons:  There are little sticks and debris all over the sand. There is seaweed and other stuff floating in the water.  This beach has a stony bottom.   I guess I won't be getting in here.   I hang out at this beach for a couple hours and decide to catch a bus back to my home for the week in Aliki.  The bus driver tells me I missed the bus What, I'm on time?  Did it leave early?  He tells me his bus goes to AntiParos. AntiParos?  That name rings a bell.  Earlier this week in Athens, I became fast friends with another solo traveler who told me that she loved visiting the beaches in Antiparos.  OK, I'm sold.  I tell the bus driver that I will stay on board.  He looks at me questioningly and shrugs his shoulders.

The bus reaches it's final destination.  It's a little city called Pounta. Everyone gets off of the bus and starts walking toward a ferry.  Pounta?  I thought I was going to Antiparos?  I follow the crowd.  It turns out the ferry takes us to Antiparos.  OK, I buy a ticket.  Now at this point, I take a photo of the schedule.  I start to remind myself that I have no idea where I am going or how I will get back.  Lots of people have suitcases with them.  I suppose I could find a hotel if there are no return ferries.   I would hate to have to pay for a hotel stay when I have already paid for the one I am staying at in Aliki.  These things run through my head, but I assume things will probably work out.





I get off at the port in Antiparos with the goal of finding the wonderful beach that my new friend mentioned.  I guess she never told me the name.  I Google local beaches.  There are 4 on the island.  I ask someone about the closest one and she gives me directions.  My surroundings are really beautiful.   I don't mind exploring.  I'm guessing that this sandy path might lead to the beach.  I see some people fishing along the way.
Beach in Antiparos with slippery, rock plates 


This rocky path should have given me a clue that I was approaching a rocky beach.  I turn a corner?  Is this a topless beach?  I remind myself that I am in Europe.  The entire beach is not topless.  It just seems that the group of ladies where I entered were eager to tan with absolutely no tan lines. Actually, the other beaches seemed to be pretty casual about topless sunbathers now that I think about it.   I walk a bit further and notice some chairs.  I grab one, sit down, and put down my belongings.  This beach is not sandy at all. It is covered in tiny pebbles.  I take off my sandals and walk carefully to the water's edge so that the pebbles don't stab the soles of my foot.  It seems there is another obstacle. The water has slippery rock plates to climb.  The plates go out for about 15-20 feet before you drop down to water with a sandy bottom.   I cross the plates carefully hoping not to fall.   The temperature today has been in the low 90s.  I'm glad to cool off in the water.  I return to my chair to read a book.  After a while, an old man with leathery skin and white stuff around his mouth approaches me.  He holds out his hand and says: "4 Euro".  I'm alarmed and quickly say : NO! I'm thinking, is this drug addict demanding money from me?  He points at the stack of chairs close by and points at my chair saying a sentence in Greek and ending with the words "4 Euro".  I now realize that he is referring to the chair I am sitting in.  I still don't want to give him 4 Euro for a chair, so I get out of the chair and lay my portable mat on the ground.  A lady nearby who overheard the exchange turns and tells me that 4 Euro is the cost of the chair for a whole day, but it seems silly to pay that much now late in the day.  I agree with her.  I lay on my mat and finish my book.  It is starting to get late and I should figure out how to get home.
This man insisted that I give him 4 Euro.  I was really confused about why he wanted money from me.  

I catch the ferry back to Pounta and the bus back to Parikia.  I have dinner in Parikia.  It is a traditional snack/meal called Souvlaki.  It is grilled pork and veggies wrapped in a pita.  It taste good and it is cheap at about $2.50USD.  Afterward I take the bus back to Aliki.


Back in Aliki, I look around with new appreciation.  I picked this part of the island because they had accommodation that was available when I needed it and it was affordable.  It turns out, the place fits my needs. I took 4 busses and 2 ferries to find out that the best beach on the island of Paros is an 8 minute walk from my hotel.